With these Shoes I thee Wed

These Alexander McQueen shoes are pretty ‘major’.  As always with most of the desirable things on net-a-porter they sure ain’t cheap at £2,095. One of my best friends is getting married this August and wow, wouldn’t these be some wedding shoes, and I wasn’t thinking primarily of the bride. They are very dramatic and would demand a definite talent for walking in heels. Made of sculpted resin and leather, these ‘sandals’ have the great virtue of being chunky yet highly feminine. A high concept shoe that would quite literally elevate any outfit.

Source: Net-a-Porter.com

Burberry A/W 11 Campaign

Burberry have released their new Autumn Winter 2011 campaign, shot by Mario Testino. The first thing to say is that the  blond male model they feature is Thomas Penfound and having worked with him on an editorial for Volt I can say he’s a really nice guy and surprisingly shy for a much sought after model. Otherwise the cast is the usual mix of models and actors, some familiar and some new, which keeps the campaign fresh and interesting. The colours are all richly autumnal and these clothes promise town and country luxury in every seam.  I particularly love the range of khakis and I’m finding it’s definitely becoming a new favourite colour for me, whether in silk with a summer tan or as here in warm wool with a jaunty fur cap.

© Copyright Burberry/Testino

Couture Fall 2011 Elie Saab

Perfection is Anja Rubik in pale grey blue followed closely by Karlie Kloss, hand on hips, in gauzy cream…. This couture collection from Elie Saab isn’t breaking new ground but it is beautifully designed for beautiful women who love beautiful clothes.  Exquisitely embellished with beads and crystals, these dresses in flattering soft shades of blue, mauve and pink with a highlight of classy/modern navy are feminine and unashamedly sexy and the shapes he makes on a woman’s body are gorgeous.

Source: Style.com

Couture Fall 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier

Where once Jean Paul Gaultier was noted for his iconoclasm, now his long pedigree in the industry means that we expect from him a degree of the traditional as well as great tailoring and an intriguing diversity of inspiration.  In dark tones and pales, with no inbetweens, he gave us his familiar trench shape worked into fluid silk dresses, plus corsets, camouflage, cloaks, feathers, something ultra feminine, something androgenous.  I was pleased to see Gabriel Perez in the show (third picture down) as I worked with him recently and he’s a really great model and also a nice guy, which is quite an impressive combo.

Source: Style.com

Couture Fall 2011 Valentino

I think this is the first collection I’ve liked since Valentino departed his eponymous brand. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli’s collection was opulent and refined and yet magically light. The aristocratic Russia influence was apparent in the formality of the clothes, the high collars, the long sleeves, the buttoning, but this never becomes heavy because of the delicacy of many of the fabrics and the sheen of metallic, even on tweed, which feels not military but wistful and elegant.  The diadem headpieces are perfect and combine with the dresses to make the models looks like ethereal sheaves.

Source: Style.com

Couture Fall 2011 Chanel

I’m naming and shaming! This collection was for me the poorest of the week, the opening two ill fitting, uninspiring, cumbersome grey suits summed up this poor show. It all seemed to be founded on a vision of granny wear, with unflattering bag-shaped clothes, Desperately Seeking Susan hats and equally formlesss boots; tired clothes pulled out of trunks in the attic. Both in the lumpy silhouettes and in the twilight tones that wash out the skin, this time around Karl seems to have forgotten the need to please his clientele. Why would women spend their husbands ill gotten gains on these dresses?

Source: Style.com

Couture Fall 2011 Givenchy

If the formula works why not stick with it? Ricardo Tisci produces another unique, deceptively small collection, once again mostly all white, whose inspiration was  “purity, lightness, fragility”.  The effect of the heavily embellished fabrics contrasting with the lightness of the sheers is magical. The feathers, beads, crystals, pearls and paillettes handworked onto these dresses has to be seen to be believed and I was very lucky to have worked with some of Givenchy’s couture pieces when I was at Vogue so I can tell you first hand that it really is like holding a piece of art.

Source: Style.com

Couture Fall 2011 Armani Prive

Designers have long looked to Japan for inspiration, intrigued by the mixed fashion culture that contrasts the grace and fluidity of draped silk with the structured rigidity of its martial side, and this collection for Armani Prive reflects this subtly with beautiful cherry blossom printed silks, kimono style shaping, obi belts as well as some stiffened bodices and angular lines.  It looked both traditional and modern and the origami hats by Philip Treacy elegantly reflected one of this season’s couture trends.

Source: Style.com

Couture Fall 2011 Christian Dior

It was the first time that fashion journalists, Russian buyers and fans alike could get the chance to see whether Bill Gaytten, Galliano’s right hand man, could produce anything close to the vision of the currently disgraced genius. And it did seem as if there had been too many ideas waiting for expression so that we were whisked somewhat bewilderingly through ideas and techniques from multiple genres. There was some wonderful truly couture work with the fabric – no change there – but for the aesthetic we started off in a Lichenstein mood, flirted with the swinging 60s, briefly referenced some 70s psychedelia, then came to rest on princessy dresses that Bo Peep would have had on her wish list.  Cohesive it wasn’t and I don’t think we have learnt much, yet, about where Dior is going next.

Source: Style.com

Couture Fall 2011 Giambattista Valli

It has been Couture week in Paris, with the select few houses showcasing their Fall 2011 designs. Giambattista Valli, a newcomer to this elite group, was the first to show, offering  lots of volume, with highly embellished coats and dresses in black, white and a splash of corally pink. I wasn’t fond of the little headpieces and despite the fashion press declaring the small hat/fascinator look over, something very similar is to be found on many of the couture runways this week. It was a cohesive and feminine collection and for the woman who can carry off crystal-decked dresses finished in ostrich feathers, a triumph.  The only discordant note was saved for some animal print looks which didn’t seem to add anything to the collection and for which I can offer no explanation.

Source: Style.com